Satellite images have been adopted in recent years for identifying topographical features on the Earth’s surface. Researchers have also published reports on the use of satellite images to analyze shoreline changes or to verify shoreline change in numerical models. But reports that demonstrate the reverse process of using satellite images to estimate the incident waves to a beach are rare, particularly to a place where protective coastal structures exist. This paper describes a once-thriving coastal townsite with two fishing ports in Korea which has been transformed into a typical example that relies on protective structures with occasional artificial nourishment to maintain its shoreline stability in the past 20 years. Unlike many others, this study proposes a new methodology to estimate the deepwater wave heights based on the analysis of shoreline data extracted from satellite images over 5 years (2019–2023) for Wonpyeong-Chogok Beach, its median sediment grain sizes D50, and the known empirical relationship between sediment and waves. The entire shoreline of 2,860 m in length is divided into 39 transects, of which one-half of it is protected by submerged and emergent detached breakwaters, where shoreline has advanced, while the rest has eroded. From the standard deviation values ​​calculated from the extracted shoreline location data, the influence of long-term trends was excluded, and the intrinsic standard deviation is obtained by applying sediment size information, and then the incident deep-water (average annual maximum) wave height of 4.363 m was estimated. Applying this methodology to the beach area where the coastal structure was placed, the wave transmission of the coastal structure was calculated 0.91 and 0.72 for LCSs and TT-DBWs, respectively, through the reduction ratio of the standard deviation. Finally, discussions are made on how the resolution of the Sentinel-2 satellite images in affecting the standard deviation and long-term trend results in the shoreline data.

中文翻译：

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利用 Sentinel-2 卫星图像对海岸线变化和入射波进行相关性分析：在韩国 Wonpyeong-Chogok 海滩的应用


近年来，卫星图像已被用于识别地球表面的地形特征。研究人员还发表了有关使用卫星图像分析海岸线变化或在数值模型中验证海岸线变化的报告。但是，很少有报告表明使用卫星图像来估计海滩的入射波是相反过程的，尤其是在存在保护性沿海结构的地方。本文描述了韩国一个曾经繁荣的沿海城镇，拥有两个渔港，在过去 20 年中，它已经转变为一个典型的例子，它依靠保护结构，偶尔的人工滋养来维持其海岸线的稳定。与许多其他研究不同，本研究提出了一种新的方法，根据对 Wonpyeong-Chogok 海滩 5 年（2019-2023 年）卫星图像中提取的海岸线数据、其沉积物中位粒度 D50 以及沉积物与波浪之间已知的经验关系的分析，估计深水波高。整个海岸线全长 2,860 米，分为 39 个横断面，其中一半由淹没和涌现的分离防波堤保护，海岸线已经推进，而其余部分则已被侵蚀。从提取的海岸线位置数据计算的标准差值中，排除了长期趋势的影响，通过应用沉积物尺寸信息获得内在标准差，然后估计入射深水（平均年最大值）波高 4.363 m。将此方法应用于放置沿海结构的海滩区域，计算出沿海结构的波传输为 0.91 和 0。LCS 和 TT-DBW 分别为 72，通过标准差的折减比。最后，讨论了 Sentinel-2 卫星图像的分辨率如何影响海岸线数据的标准差和长期趋势。