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Sport climbing performance determinants and functional testing methods: A systematic review
Journal of Sport and Health Science ( IF 9.7 ) Pub Date : 2024-08-29 , DOI: 10.1016/j.jshs.2024.100974 Sara Faggian 1 , Nicola Borasio 2 , Marco Vecchiato 2 , Hannes Gatterer 3 , Martin Burtscher 4 , Francesca Battista 2 , Hannes Brunner 5 , Giulia Quinto 2 , Federica Duregon 1 , Andrea Ermolao 2 , Daniel Neunhaeuserer 2
Journal of Sport and Health Science ( IF 9.7 ) Pub Date : 2024-08-29 , DOI: 10.1016/j.jshs.2024.100974 Sara Faggian 1 , Nicola Borasio 2 , Marco Vecchiato 2 , Hannes Gatterer 3 , Martin Burtscher 4 , Francesca Battista 2 , Hannes Brunner 5 , Giulia Quinto 2 , Federica Duregon 1 , Andrea Ermolao 2 , Daniel Neunhaeuserer 2
Affiliation
Sport climbing is becoming incredibly popular both in the general population and among athletes. No consensus exists regarding evidence-based sport-specific performance evaluation; therefore, this systematic review is aimed at analyzing determinants of sport climbing performance and evaluation methods by comparing climbers of different levels. PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science were searched up to December 20, 2022. Studies providing the self-reported climbing ability associated with different functional outcomes in groups of climbers of contiguous performance levels were eligible. 74 studies were finally included. Various methods have been proposed to evaluate determinants of sport climbing performance. Climbing-specific assessments were able to discriminate climbers of different levels when compared to general functional tests. Test validity resulted high for climbing-specific cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power; similarly, reliability was good except for cardiorespiratory endurance. Climbing-specific flexibility assessment resulted in high reliability but moderate validity, whereas balance showed low validity. Considerable conflicting evidence was found regarding anthropometric characteristics. The present analysis identified cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power as determinants of sport climbing performance. In contrast, balance, flexibility, and anthropometric characteristics seem to count less. This review also proposes an evidence-based Functional Sport Climbing test battery for assessing performance determinants, which includes tests that have been identified to be valid, reliable, and feasible. While athletes and coaches should rely on evidence-based and standardized evaluation methods, researchers may design specific large-scale trials as a resource for providing additional, homogenous, and comparable data to improve scientific evidence and professionalism in this popular sport discipline.
中文翻译:
运动攀岩性能决定因素和功能测试方法:系统评价
运动攀登在普通民众和运动员中变得非常受欢迎。关于基于证据的特定运动表现评估尚未达成共识;因此,本次系统综述旨在通过比较不同级别的攀岩者,分析运动攀岩成绩的决定因素和评估方法。 PubMed、Scopus 和 Web of Science 的检索截止日期为 2022 年 12 月 20 日。提供自我报告的攀爬能力与具有连续表现水平的登山者群体的不同功能结果相关的研究是合格的。最终纳入了 74 项研究。已经提出了各种方法来评估运动攀登性能的决定因素。与一般功能测试相比,针对攀岩的评估能够区分不同级别的攀岩者。攀岩特定心肺耐力以及肌肉力量、耐力和爆发力的测试有效性较高;同样,除了心肺耐力外,可靠性也很好。针对攀岩的灵活性评估具有较高的可靠性,但有效性中等,而平衡性的有效性较低。关于人体测量特征,发现了相当多相互矛盾的证据。目前的分析确定心肺耐力以及肌肉力量、耐力和力量是运动攀岩表现的决定因素。相比之下,平衡性、灵活性和人体测量特征似乎就不那么重要了。本次审查还提出了一种基于证据的功能运动攀岩测试电池,用于评估性能决定因素,其中包括已被确定为有效、可靠和可行的测试。 虽然运动员和教练应依赖基于证据的标准化评估方法,但研究人员可以设计特定的大规模试验作为提供额外的、同质的和可比较的数据的资源,以提高这一流行体育学科的科学证据和专业水平。
更新日期:2024-08-29
中文翻译:
运动攀岩性能决定因素和功能测试方法:系统评价
运动攀登在普通民众和运动员中变得非常受欢迎。关于基于证据的特定运动表现评估尚未达成共识;因此,本次系统综述旨在通过比较不同级别的攀岩者,分析运动攀岩成绩的决定因素和评估方法。 PubMed、Scopus 和 Web of Science 的检索截止日期为 2022 年 12 月 20 日。提供自我报告的攀爬能力与具有连续表现水平的登山者群体的不同功能结果相关的研究是合格的。最终纳入了 74 项研究。已经提出了各种方法来评估运动攀登性能的决定因素。与一般功能测试相比,针对攀岩的评估能够区分不同级别的攀岩者。攀岩特定心肺耐力以及肌肉力量、耐力和爆发力的测试有效性较高;同样,除了心肺耐力外,可靠性也很好。针对攀岩的灵活性评估具有较高的可靠性,但有效性中等,而平衡性的有效性较低。关于人体测量特征,发现了相当多相互矛盾的证据。目前的分析确定心肺耐力以及肌肉力量、耐力和力量是运动攀岩表现的决定因素。相比之下,平衡性、灵活性和人体测量特征似乎就不那么重要了。本次审查还提出了一种基于证据的功能运动攀岩测试电池,用于评估性能决定因素,其中包括已被确定为有效、可靠和可行的测试。 虽然运动员和教练应依赖基于证据的标准化评估方法,但研究人员可以设计特定的大规模试验作为提供额外的、同质的和可比较的数据的资源,以提高这一流行体育学科的科学证据和专业水平。