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Bioactivity and application of anthocyanins in skin protection and cosmetics: an extension as a functional pigment
Phytochemistry Reviews ( IF 7.3 ) Pub Date : 2023-09-25 , DOI: 10.1007/s11101-023-09890-z
Xusheng Li , Chuqi Liu , Yawen Li , Kailan Yuan , Wenbao Zhang , Dongbao Cai , Ziyao Peng , Yunfeng Hu , Jianxia Sun , Weibin Bai

The skin undertakes a safeguard against external dangers, sensations, and symbols of beauty and health, and different cosmetics provide targeted solutions to various skin problems. However, synthetic pigment and chemical components in cosmetics can harm sensitive skin, resulting in further damage to the skin. Anthocyanins are natural pigments that possess vivid colors, excellent bioactivity, and the absence of toxicity. Therefore, anthocyanins have garnered considerable interest owing to their potential applications in cosmetics for dermatological conditions and aesthetic purposes. This review aims to comprehensively summarize studies and advancements in the use of anthocyanins in cosmetics and their potential future directions. These findings confirmed the bioactivity of anthocyanins against photodamage and melanogenesis and revealed the underlying mechanism. Additionally, anthocyanins were found to have great potential as one colorant, but their use is limited by their low lipophilicity and susceptibility to high temperature and variations in pH. Future research should prioritize anthocyanin stabilization, pyranoanthocyanin use, and investigation of the effects of anthocyanins on the gut-skin axis. This review advances our understanding of the application of anthocyanins as functional pigments in cosmetics and provides a scientific basis for the potential use of anthocyanins to improve skin function.



中文翻译:

花青素的生物活性及其在护肤和化妆品中的应用:作为功能性色素的延伸

皮肤承担着抵御外界危险、感觉的作用,是美丽和健康的象征,不同的化妆品针对不同的皮肤问题提供有针对性的解决方案。然而,化妆品中的合成色素和化学成分会伤害敏感皮肤,导致皮肤进一步受损。花青素是天然色素,具有鲜艳的色彩、优异的生物活性且无毒性。因此,花青素由于其在皮肤病和美容目的化妆品中的潜在应用而引起了相当大的兴趣。本文旨在全面总结花青素在化妆品中的应用研究和进展及其未来的潜在方向。这些发现证实了花青素具有抗光损伤和黑素生成的生物活性,并揭示了其潜在机制。此外,花青素被发现作为一种着色剂具有巨大的潜力,但其使用受到其低亲脂性以及对高温和 pH 值变化敏感的限制。未来的研究应优先考虑花青素的稳定性、吡喃花青素的使用以及花青素对肠道-皮肤轴的影响的研究。该综述增进了我们对花青素作为功能性色素在化妆品中应用的认识,并为花青素改善皮肤功能的潜在用途提供了科学依据。但它们的使用受到亲脂性低、对高温和 pH 值变化敏感的限制。未来的研究应优先考虑花青素的稳定性、吡喃花青素的使用以及花青素对肠道-皮肤轴的影响的研究。该综述增进了我们对花青素作为功能性色素在化妆品中应用的认识,并为花青素改善皮肤功能的潜在用途提供了科学依据。但它们的使用受到亲脂性低、对高温和 pH 值变化敏感的限制。未来的研究应优先考虑花青素的稳定性、吡喃花青素的使用以及花青素对肠道-皮肤轴的影响的研究。该综述增进了我们对花青素作为功能性色素在化妆品中应用的认识,并为花青素改善皮肤功能的潜在用途提供了科学依据。

更新日期:2023-09-25
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