皮革鞣制绿色化学方法在可持续皮革制造中的综述,Green Chemistry

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皮革鞣制绿色化学方法在可持续皮革制造中的综述
Green Chemistry ( IF 9.3 ) Pub Date : 2023-08-18 , DOI: 10.1039/d3gc02948d
Mohammad Mahbubul Hassan ₁ , Jane Harris ₁ , James J. C. Busfield ₂ , Emiliano Bilotti ₃

Affiliation

皮革由胶原蛋白聚合物制成，用于制造各种产品，包括鞋类、汽车内饰、服装和运动器材。动物毛皮通过一系列化学过程转化为皮革。其中，鞣制过程是最重要的化学过程，通过稳定胶原纤维将动物皮转化为皮革，使其不腐烂。然而，这是一个危险的过程，因为在鞣制、复鞣和加脂处理中使用了各种有毒化学品，产生有毒废水。多年来，已经开发出许多基于硫酸铬、植物单宁和合成单宁与重金属结合的鞣制处理方法，但硫酸铬鞣制（称为 Cr 鞣制）仍然是最有效、最便宜的。以及在皮革工业中广泛使用的鞣制工艺。尽管各种改进的铬鞣方法的开发大大减少了皮革鞣制中的化学品和水的消耗，但由于产生的废水含有有害水平的铬，因此仍然受到严格审查，并且有强有力的证据表明，处理过的皮革在处置时进入环境后，部分释放的三价铬转化为致癌的六价铬。多年来，人们开发了许多基于化学和酶交联、各种生物衍生聚合物、酶、改性沸石和纳米结构材料的铬鞣可持续替代品，但取得的成功有限。替代方法要么不如铬鞣有效，要么影响皮革的染色性以及其他功能和感官特性，和/或成本过高。在这篇综合综述文章中，对工业中使用或实验室研究的各种鞣制方法进行了批判性回顾，并概述了它们的优点和缺点。对鞣剂的消耗量、各种助剂、加脂剂等化学药品总量、鞣制用水量以及加工后的皮革的鞣制性能和机械性能进行了汇总和比较。概述了新型鞣剂与皮革胶原蛋白的反应机制以及使皮革鞣制更加可持续的未来方向。这篇综述文章将为参与皮革加工的院士/研究人员/制造商开发更可持续的皮革材料提供指导。对工业中使用的或实验室研究的各种鞣制方法进行了严格的审查，并概述了它们的优点和缺点。对鞣剂的消耗量、各种助剂、加脂剂等化学药品总量、鞣制用水量以及加工后的皮革的鞣制性能和机械性能进行了汇总和比较。概述了新型鞣剂与皮革胶原蛋白的反应机制以及使皮革鞣制更加可持续的未来方向。这篇综述文章将为参与皮革加工的院士/研究人员/制造商开发更可持续的皮革材料提供指导。对工业中使用的或实验室研究的各种鞣制方法进行了严格的审查，并概述了它们的优点和缺点。对鞣剂的消耗量、各种助剂、加脂剂等化学药品总量、鞣制用水量以及加工后的皮革的鞣制性能和机械性能进行了汇总和比较。概述了新型鞣剂与皮革胶原蛋白的反应机制以及使皮革鞣制更加可持续的未来方向。这篇综述文章将为参与皮革加工的院士/研究人员/制造商开发更可持续的皮革材料提供指导。编制并比较了鞣制过程中各种助剂、加脂剂、水等化学物质总量，以及加工后皮革的鞣制性能和机械性能。概述了新型鞣剂与皮革胶原蛋白的反应机制以及使皮革鞣制更加可持续的未来方向。这篇综述文章将为参与皮革加工的院士/研究人员/制造商开发更可持续的皮革材料提供指导。编制并比较了鞣制过程中各种助剂、加脂剂、水等化学物质总量，以及加工后皮革的鞣制性能和机械性能。概述了新型鞣剂与皮革胶原蛋白的反应机制以及使皮革鞣制更加可持续的未来方向。这篇综述文章将为参与皮革加工的院士/研究人员/制造商开发更可持续的皮革材料提供指导。

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A review of the green chemistry approaches to leather tanning in imparting sustainable leather manufacturing

Leather is made of collagen protein polymer, which is used in the manufacture of a variety of products including footwear, automotive upholstery, garments, and sports equipment. Animal skins/hides are converted into leather using a series of chemical processes. Of them, the tanning process is the most important chemical process that converts animal skins into leather by stabilising collagen fibre so that they do not putrefy. However, it is a hazardous process because of the use of various toxic chemicals in tanning, re-tanning and fatliquoring treatments producing toxic effluent. Over the years many tanning treatments based on chromium sulphate, and vegetable and synthetic tannins in combination with heavy metals, have been developed but tanning with chromium sulphate (known as Cr-tanning) is still the most effective, cheap, and widely used tanning process in the leather industry. Although the development of various improved Cr-tanning methods highly reduced the chemical and water consumption in leather tanning, it is still under scrutiny because of the production of effluent containing a harmful level of Cr and there is strong evidence that when the treated leather is disposed into the environment, part of the released trivalent chromium is converted into carcinogenic hexavalent chromium. Many sustainable alternatives to Cr-tanning based on chemical and enzymatic crosslinking, various bio-derived polymers, enzymes, modified zeolites, and nanostructured materials have been developed over the years with limited success. The alternative methods are either not as effective as Cr-tanning, affect the dyeability and other functional and organoleptic properties of leather, and or are cost-prohibitive. In this comprehensive review article, various tanning methods used in industry or studied in the laboratory are critically reviewed, and their advantages and disadvantages are outlined. The consumption of tanning agents, total chemicals including various auxiliaries and fatliquoring agents, and water in tanning, and the tanning performance and mechanical properties of the processed leather are compiled and compared. The reaction mechanisms of novel tanning agents with leather collagens and the future directions to make leather tanning more sustainable are outlined. This review article will be a guide for academicians/researchers/manufacturers involved in leather processing to develop more sustainable leather materials.

更新日期：2023-08-18

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