Sericulture and the state supervision of textile production was a longstanding tradition in the Middle East during the pre-Islamic period. However, neither were known in the Iberian Peninsula. With the rise of Islam, the luxury fabrics produced by the state institution of ṭirāz became a prominent symbol of sovereignty, encouraging the Umayyads of al-Andalus (138 h./756–422 h./1031) to create their own ṭirāz workshop, which specialized in silk fabrics, after sericulture was introduced in Iberia under their rule. Little was known about this productive process, as existing studies have tended to focus exclusively on one of the multiple types of evidence available: Arabic, Latin and Hebrew textual sources; chemical, technical and decorative analysis of preserved textiles; and others. This paper uses all the evidence available to undertake a comprehensive study of the operation of the Umayyad ṭirāz workshop in al-Andalus. Beginning with the tributary and administrative factors that surrounded the institution, the process by which demand for silk in the Mediterranean markets gave private merchants the instruments to control the Andalusi textile sector is analysed. By the fifth h./eleventh century, al-Andalus had become the main supplier of silk goods in the Mediterranean.

在前伊斯兰时期，养蚕和国家对纺织品生产的监督是中东地区的长期传统。然而，这两者在伊比利亚半岛都不为人所知。随着伊斯兰教的兴起，国家机构ṭirāz生产的奢华面料成为主权的重要象征，鼓励安达卢斯的倭马亚王朝（138 h./756–422 h./1031）创造自己的ṭirāz在他们统治下的伊比利亚引入养蚕业后，专门生产丝绸织物的作坊。人们对这一生产过程知之甚少，因为现有的研究往往只关注现有的多种证据类型中的一种：阿拉伯语、拉丁语和希伯来语文本来源；保存纺织品的化学、技术和装饰分析；和别的。本文利用所有可用证据对倭马亚ṭirāz的运作进行全面研究安达卢斯的研讨会。从围绕该机构的朝贡和行政因素开始，分析了地中海市场对丝绸的需求为私人商人提供控制安达卢西亚纺织部门的工具的过程。到公元五世纪/十一世纪，安达卢斯已成为地中海丝绸制品的主要供应商。