Dress ( IF 0.2 ) Pub Date : 2023-01-30 , DOI: 10.1080/03612112.2023.2165330 Rebecca Jumper Matheson
Phelps Associates, a business operated by the husband-and-wife design team of William Drown Phelps (1890–1962) and Elizabeth Heintges Phelps (1909–87) from 1940 until 1969, was critically acclaimed for creating accessories and sportswear that embodied American ideals from patriotism to practicality. The Phelpses’ accessories designs celebrated handcraft traditions in the making of leather goods, while both their accessories and sportswear designs emphasized long-term investment in quality goods. This research focused on the output of the Phelpses’ two postwar workshops located in Pennsylvania and North Carolina to consider how they expanded their small, critically acclaimed leather-goods workshop to produce ready-to-wear sportswear and how clients used their products. Phelpses’ designs, particularly those attributed to Elizabeth, served a consumer base of primarily middle- and upper-class white women in navigating gender roles during the exigencies of war and in the postwar period.
中文翻译:
Stella Blum 资助报告
Phelps Associates 是一家由 William Drown Phelps(1890-1962 年)和 Elizabeth Heintges Phelps(1909-87 年)夫妻设计团队于 1940 年至 1969 年经营的企业,因创造体现美国理想的配饰和运动服而广受好评从爱国到务实。Phelpses 的配饰设计彰显了皮革制品制作的手工艺传统,而他们的配饰和运动装设计都强调对优质产品的长期投资。本研究重点关注 Phelpses 位于宾夕法尼亚州和北卡罗来纳州的两个战后作坊的产出,以研究他们如何扩大其广受好评的小型皮具作坊以生产成衣运动服,以及客户如何使用他们的产品。菲尔普斯的设计,尤其是那些归功于伊丽莎白的设计,