提供具有出色鞣制能力的天然有机颜料：一种用于可持续皮革制造的新型“一锅法”鞣染一体化策略,ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering

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提供具有出色鞣制能力的天然有机颜料：一种用于可持续皮革制造的新型“一锅法”鞣染一体化策略
ACS Sustainable Chemistry & Engineering ( IF 7.1 ) Pub Date : 2022-12-12 , DOI: 10.1021/acssuschemeng.2c06144
Wei Ding ₁ , Haiteng Liu ₁ , Shuolin Li ₁ , Javier Remón ₂ , Xiaoyan Pang ₁ , Zhiwen Ding ₁

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工程化高性能无铬彩色皮革是目前皮革行业面临的一项严峻挑战。在此，我们报告了一种新型的鞣染整合策略，该策略基于将天然胭脂虫红 (Car) 转化为有效的鞣剂 (DCar) 而不会通过高碘酸盐氧化失去其染色能力。最初，DCar被用作鞣染剂，导致鞣染皮革具有良好分散和固定的胶原纤维（CFs）和收缩温度（T _s）约 70°C。随后，这种皮革被填充和加脂，为随后的 CFs 基质铝固定做好准备，这得益于 DCar 出色的金属络合能力。这种双重集成工艺成功地同时进行了皮革鞣制和染色。因此，所得坯革的T _s约为。80 °C 具有出色的分散和固定的 CFs 网络以及出色的柔软度、丰满度和可商业化的机械强度（拉伸强度：13 N/mm ²; 撕裂强度：54 N/mm）。此外，它还具有非常适销对路的棕色、光滑的粒面、优异的着色均匀性和牢度。这些结果为新范例打开了大门，即提供具有鞣制性能的天然颜料和染料，以开发用于皮革工业的新型和良性双鞣-染色剂。

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Providing Natural Organic Pigments with Excellent Tanning Capabilities: A Novel “One-Pot” Tanning–Dyeing Integration Strategy for Sustainable Leather Manufacturing

Engineering high-performance chrome-free colored leather is currently a tough challenge in the leather industry. Herein, we report on a novel tanning–dyeing integration strategy based on converting natural cochineal carmine (Car) into an effective tanning agent (DCar) without losing its dyeing capabilities via periodate oxidation. Initially, DCar was used as a tanning–dyeing agent, leading to tanned-dyed leather with well-dispersed and fixed collagen fibers (CFs) and a shrinkage temperature (T_s) of ca. 70 °C. Subsequently, this leather was filled and fatliquored to be prepared for the subsequent aluminum fixation of the CFs matrix, which was facilitated by the excellent metal complexation capabilities of DCar. This dual integrative process resulted in successful simultaneous leather tanning and dyeing. Consequently, the resultant crust leather had a T_s of ca. 80 °C with an outstandingly dispersed and fixed CFs network and excellent softness, fullness, and commercializable mechanical strength (tensile strength: 13 N/mm²; tear strength: 54 N/mm). Besides, it also had a highly marketable brown color, a smooth grain surface, and excellent coloring uniformity and fastness. These results open the door for a new paradigm, i.e., providing natural pigments and dyes with tanning properties to develop novel and benign dual tanning–dyeing agents for the leather industry.

更新日期：2022-12-12

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