Abstract

This article traces the long career of the international fashion buyer and recruitment consultant, Vanessa Denza. It is the first study to document Denza’s profession and incorporates research secured from access to her private work archive, which was located at her home in Berkshire, England. With no formal education in buying, Denza took a series of internships that formed the beginning of her on-the-job training as a fashion buyer and led to an important role as the buyer for a pioneering store aimed at younger people, The 21 Shop at Woollands in Knightsbridge, London, UK. Here, she promoted exciting designers who worked with revolutionary new shapes and colours and introduced radical new ways to sell fashion. Subsequent roles led to her directing a series of global fashion boutiques; the establishment of her international fashion buying office and recruitment consultancy; and an influential role in developing global fashion education. The article pinpoints the key buying skills that Denza considered essential within her career and seeks opinions on them in relation to future skills requirements for fashion buying. The aim is to understand and contextualise this expertise within in an ever-changing, global fashion industry.

摘要

本文追溯了国际时装买手兼招聘顾问 Vanessa Denza 的漫长职业生涯。这是第一项记录登扎职业生涯的研究，并纳入了通过访问她位于英国伯克郡的家中的私人工作档案获得的研究成果。由于没有接受过正规的买手教育，Denza 参加了一系列实习，这构成了她作为时尚买手在职培训的开始，并在一家针对年轻人的先锋商店 The 21 Shop 中担任了重要的买手角色。位于英国伦敦骑士桥的 Woollands。在这里，她提拔了一些令人兴奋的设计师，他们致力于革命性的新形状和颜色，并引入了激进的新方式来销售时尚。随后的角色使她指导了一系列全球时尚精品店；成立国际时装采购办公室和招聘咨询公司；并在发展全球时尚教育方面发挥重要作用。这篇文章指出了 Denza 认为在她的职业生涯中至关重要的关键购买技能，并就这些技能与未来时尚购买的技能要求相关地寻求意见。目的是在不断变化的全球时尚行业中理解和应用这些专业知识。