This article is concerned with identification and interpretation of the costumes featured in two portraits of Polish aristocratic women by Franz Xaver Winterhalter: Katarzyna Potocka née Branicka in Oriental Costume, 1854 (National Museum in Warsaw) and Wieńczysława Barczewska, Madame de Jurjewicz, 1860 (Museum of Fine Arts in Boston). The former outfit, brought by the wearer from her journey to the Near East, references dress worn by Greek women in the Ottoman Empire. The latter is fancy dress featuring the jacket called polka, harking back to the overcoat called kontusz, iconic of the Orient-inspired historical Polish national dress. Winterhalter’s painterly treatment showcases the wearers’ agenda for selecting the ensembles that reflected their personal circumstances and also conveyed patriotic allusions in the context of Poland’s current status as a partitioned nation. The meanings of the “oriental” elements in both costumes extend beyond the note of exoticism to which they have been hitherto reduced.

本文关注的是对 Franz Xaver Winterhalter 的两幅波兰贵族女性肖像中服饰的识别和解读： Katarzyna Potocka née Branicka in Oriental Costume ，1854 年（华沙国家博物馆）和Wieńczysława Barczewska, Madame de Jurjewicz ，1860 年（博物馆）波士顿美术学院）。前身是穿着者在近东旅行时带来的，参考了奥斯曼帝国希腊妇女所穿的服饰。后者是以名为polka的夹克为特色的化装，让人想起名为kontusz的大衣。，以东方为灵感的历史悠久的波兰民族服饰的标志。Winterhalter 的绘画处理展示了佩戴者选择合奏的议程，这些合奏反映了他们的个人情况，并在波兰作为一个分裂国家的现状背景下传达了爱国典故。两种服装中的“东方”元素的含义超越了迄今为止它们被简化为异国情调的音符。