Abstract

Framed within Entwistle’s perspective of dress as “situated bodily practice” and olfactory impression management, we explored the topic of odor in clothing. A series of eight focus group interviews were used to explore the types of odors that can adhere to clothing, commonalities among clothing or textile properties that accentuate odor, and odor management practices to control, reduce or avoid odor building up in clothing. We found that many different sources of odor can permeate clothing fabrics and most odors are deemed unpleasant and unwanted. Odors arising from the body, particularly from sweat, were the most commonly cited source of odor. As part of everyday routines, individuals undergo a series of separate and interconnected odor management practices to prevent, control, or eliminate odor in their clothing. Among these, laundering clothing was the most common practice. However, individuals also attempted to control odor at the source, using the “sniff test” to assess odor and actively avoid certain items of clothing known to be persistently odorous. We also found that odor management included a progressive delegation of odorous clothing from one’s “civilized wardrobe” to other uses where odor may not matter or odor was unavoidable. It is clear that part of the embodied practice of selecting, wearing and caring for clothing, odor acts as a sign for interacting appropriately within the social world.

摘要

在恩特威斯尔将服装视为“情境身体练习”和嗅觉印象管理的视角下，我们探讨了服装中的气味这一主题。通过一系列八次焦点小组访谈来探讨可粘附在衣服上的气味类型、衣服或纺织品特性之间加重气味的共性，以及控制、减少或避免衣服中气味积聚的气味管理实践。我们发现许多不同来源的气味可以渗透到服装面料中，并且大多数气味都被认为是令人不愉快和不需要的。身体产生的气味，尤其是汗水，是最常被提及的气味来源。作为日常生活的一部分，人们会进行一系列单独且相互关联的气味管理实践，以预防、控制或消除衣服中的气味。在这些当中，洗衣服是最常见的做法。然而，人们也试图从源头控制气味，使用“嗅觉测试”来评估气味，并积极避免某些已知持续有气味的衣服。我们还发现，气味管理包括逐步将有气味的衣服从“文明衣柜”转移到气味可能不重要或气味不可避免的其他用途。很明显，在选择、穿着和护理衣服的具体实践中，气味充当了在社会世界中适当互动的标志。我们还发现，气味管理包括逐步将有气味的衣服从“文明衣柜”转移到气味可能不重要或气味不可避免的其他用途。很明显，在选择、穿着和护理衣服的具体实践中，气味充当了在社会世界中适当互动的标志。我们还发现，气味管理包括逐步将有气味的衣服从“文明衣柜”转移到气味可能不重要或气味不可避免的其他用途。很明显，在选择、穿着和护理衣服的具体实践中，气味充当了在社会世界中适当互动的标志。