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Assessment of kinetic stability of cosmetic emulsions formulated with different emulsifiers using rheological and sensory analyses
Journal of Sol-Gel Science and Technology ( IF 2.3 ) Pub Date : 2021-08-12 , DOI: 10.1007/s10971-021-05587-x
A. Franzol 1, 2 , T. R. Brazil 1 , M. C. Rezende 1, 2 , T. M. Banin 3
Affiliation  

Emulsions are considered thermodynamically unstable systems and the establishment of technical criteria to select suitable components and concentrations to achieve the kinetic stability is a complex task. Theoretical studies have been aimed at obtaining better results and more stable emulsion systems, but relatively little information is available in the literature to support the development of complex emulsion systems. Thus, to address this knowledge gap, the kinetic stability of a cosmetic emulsion containing three different emulsifiers (anionic, cationic and non-ionic) was studied using rheological analysis. The emulsifiers were tested at different concentrations (1.0, 3.0, 5.0 wt%) and the emulsions were aged at different temperatures (5–60 °C) and for various time periods (2 weeks to 6 months). Rheological results based on flow curves, frequency sweep and amplitude sweep show the influence of the concentrations and chemical aspects of the emulsifiers on the emulsion stability. The best behaviors were observed for the samples with 3.0 wt% of cationic and anionic emulsifiers. This result presented good agreement with sensorial tests performed with consumers, who had a preference for the emulsion with 3% of cationic emulsifier. The correlation between the rheological and sensorial results verified the effectiveness of predictive studies based on rheological analysis, which can eliminate or reduce the long time periods required for kinetic studies (aging) and sensory testing in humans.



中文翻译:

使用流变学和感官分析评估用不同乳化剂配制的化妆品乳液的动力学稳定性

乳液被认为是热力学不稳定的系统,建立技术标准以选择合适的组分和浓度以实现动力学稳定性是一项复杂的任务。理论研究旨在获得更好的结果和更稳定的乳液体系,但文献中支持复杂乳液体系开发的信息相对较少。因此,为了弥补这一知识差距,使用流变分析研究了含有三种不同乳化剂(阴离子、阳离子和非离子)的化妆品乳液的动力学稳定性。乳化剂在不同浓度(1.0、3.0、5.0 wt%)下进行测试,乳液在不同温度(5-60°C)和不同时间段(2 周至 6 个月)下老化。基于流动曲线的流变结果,频率扫描和幅度扫描显示了乳化剂的浓度和化学方面对乳液稳定性的影响。对于含有 3.0 wt% 的阳离子和阴离子乳化剂的样品,观察到了最好的行为。该结果与消费者进行的感官测试非常吻合,消费者偏爱含 3% 阳离子乳化剂的乳液。流变学和感官结果之间的相关性验证了基于流变学分析的预测研究的有效性,可以消除或减少人体动力学研究(老化)和感官测试所需的长时间。0 wt% 的阳离子和阴离子乳化剂。该结果与消费者进行的感官测试非常吻合,消费者偏爱含 3% 阳离子乳化剂的乳液。流变学和感官结果之间的相关性验证了基于流变学分析的预测研究的有效性,可以消除或减少人体动力学研究(老化)和感官测试所需的长时间。0 wt% 的阳离子和阴离子乳化剂。该结果与消费者进行的感官测试非常吻合,消费者偏爱含 3% 阳离子乳化剂的乳液。流变学和感官结果之间的相关性验证了基于流变学分析的预测研究的有效性,可以消除或减少人体动力学研究(老化)和感官测试所需的长时间。

更新日期:2021-08-19
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