Prosopis juliflora is an invasive plant distributed throughout the world and presents metabolites of interest for cosmetology. The aim of this work was to develop a new polysaccharide-based ingredient from P. juliflora and analyze its application in a solid core formulation that upon contact with water instantly forms a gel to improve moisturizing and anti-aging skin properties. Purified extracts by gel chromatography were characterized by NMR and LC-DAD-MS-MS. The in vitro and in vivo safety, antioxidant activity, formulation development and clinical evaluation were performed. The extract was characterized as containing an α-glucan and phenolics. It was non-cytotoxic, non-phototoxic and no skin reactions were observed in vivo. Antioxidant activity were present through different mechanisms. Clinical evaluation reinforced the potential of P. juliflora in skin hydration and microrelief improvement. This innovative form proved to be a prototype of a new product and the first study of an α-glucan as a cosmetic ingredient.

中文翻译：

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作为新的化妆品成分的Prosopis juliflora：具有生物活性的保湿和抗衰老创新固体核心的开发和临床评估。

鸢尾（Prosopis juliflora）是一种侵入性植物，分布于世界各地，并呈现出美容方面感兴趣的代谢产物。这项工作的目的是开发一种来自胡杨假单胞菌的新的基于多糖的成分，并分析其在固体核心配方中的应用，该配方在与水接触后立即形成凝胶，以改善皮肤的保湿和抗衰老特性。通过NMR和LC-DAD-MS-MS对通过凝胶色谱法纯化的提取物进行表征。进行了体外和体内安全性，抗氧化剂活性，制剂开发和临床评估。提取物的特征在于含有α-葡聚糖和酚类。它是无细胞毒性，无光毒性的，并且在体内没有观察到皮肤反应。抗氧化活性通过不同的机制存在。临床评估增强了P的潜力。桔梗在皮肤水合作用和微浮雕的改善。这种创新形式被证明是新产品的原型，也是对作为化妆品成分的α-葡聚糖的首次研究。